Spanish and Portuguese Schist!
What is
- 2002 Mas Igneus Priorat Barranc dels Closos –
Spain , Catalunya,Priorat (1/1/2006)
Clear rich burgundy color.The nose shows Strawberry, rhubarb, anise, raspberry and some light smoke. There is even a touch of yeastiness. Medium strength on the palate with tannins that are firm and a high acidity. In the mouth, the nose is mimicked with sour cherry, chalky pepper, and as it opens more and more Port like. Possibly from the schistous soil.
What interested me most when I tasted it, was the last two lines of my note. The Priorato claims that the secret to their success is a soil locally called Llicorella – a type of Schist. Knowing this, I’ve always had a thought in the back of my head saying, “wow, two places with schist, must be the related in someway”! My naivete is quickly revealed if you took the time to read Bill Nesto’s article where he mentions that schist is actually very common and shows up in many of the world’s great wine regions. Unfortunately, this information meant that while geologically the same, the wine I had tasted was not related to Port wine in any other way than taste alone. In fact, the grapes used to make Port wine and Priorat wines are not even the same. Content to leave it at that, and admit I had just seen a similar flavor and made a hasty conclusion, it was then that I found this article on [Catalonian wine and food->http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/articles/detail?articleId=5733&pageNumber=1]. If your like me and take the time to read through the whole article you will find an interesting passage on [page 3->http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/articles/detail?articleId=5733&pageNumber=3].
The soil that seems so unforgiving is volcanic and contains slate and quartzite (mica) in a mixture locally called llicorella, which allows vine roots to penetrate deep down into schist. (Llicorella imparts the hint of licorice that marks the best Priorat wines.) The same stratum of schist runs right under central Spain and pops up again beneath the world’s best port vineyards, in Portugal’s
Duoro Valley. Such is the felicity of geology.
Huh?!?! Did I read that right, the same stratum of schist? Well off to Google I scrolled and search after search I ran, and in the end what did I find. Nothing. Not surprising really with the exactness of the detail I’m looking for. But there are other ways of finding things out, in fact the best way is to ask a question: If anyone out there can find me a map, image, story or information about the link between the regions of Priorat and the Douro Valley’s soils, I would greatly appreciate it.
Now, I know that I might not be crazy after all, when at the end of a Priorat tasting note, I found myself writing, “hints of port wine”. Or maybe in the future, all of my Port wine notes will contain a trailer, “finishing with hints of Priorat”
Till soon, Ryan Opaz
Ryan,
I enjoyed your comments on the relation ship between schist and the tastes of wines grown there in. I was reminded of my visit to Quinta do Crasto in the Douro in Sept 2001. While touring the Quinta our host, Miguel Roquette, explained the soil composition of the Douro and introduced me to the term 'schist.' He explained the if you were planning to purchase property in the Douro, it was best to visit it on a moon lite night when you could judge the quality of the soil by the schist glinting in the moon light.
Here's a curious connection: my visit to Quinta do Crasto was arranged by Bartholomew Broadbent. I found your site via your recent interview with Bartholomew!
Cheers!
Robert Champion
Toronto, CANADA
Hi Ryan,
Very interesting post — I wish I could add some info about the Priorat-Douro connection.
Thanks,
Steve
Ryan,
I enjoyed your comments on the relation ship between schist and the tastes of wines grown there in. I was reminded of my visit to Quinta do Crasto in the Douro in Sept 2001. While touring the Quinta our host, Miguel Roquette, explained the soil composition of the Douro and introduced me to the term ’schist.’ He explained the if you were planning to purchase property in the Douro, it was best to visit it on a moon lite night when you could judge the quality of the soil by the schist glinting in the moon light.
Here’s a curious connection: my visit to Quinta do Crasto was arranged by Bartholomew Broadbent. I found your site via your recent interview with Bartholomew!
Cheers!
Robert Champion
Toronto, CANADA
Hi Ryan,
Very interesting post — I wish I could add some info about the Priorat-Douro connection.
Thanks,
Steve
[...] As we continued to meander farther down the mountain into the valley, Jaume pulled over to the side of the road. As we stepped out of the car and inhaled the incredibly fresh clean air, Jaume picked up the grey rocky dirt, breaking down the soil type in the Priorat region. Historically, the mountains contained a prehistoric lake which evaporated over time, leaving a soft stony soil consisting of limestone and loam over slate and quartz, called llicorella. Depending on exactly where and high you are in the region, the color and density of llicorella can change dramatically from bright yellow to a deep glowing red to a mousy brown. Many claim that this stone is the reason that Priorato wines are so intense and is responsible for their tell tale minerality. Jaume was quick to point out that while Llicorella is the primary soil in the Priorat (actually the primary defining physical trait of it’s borders) and not found in the DO Montsant, there none the less are small outcroppings that defy the authorities and at times you can find similar minerality in the wines of Montsant because of this. As far as the soil of Montsant it is a clay like soil with calcium and schistous elements. Brittle and yet hard it is a soil that while not Llicorella, none-the-less cause the vines to struggle and forces them to create more concentrated wines. [...]