From recent posts, you would imagine that Ryan and I don’t actually live in Barcelona. Our pictures display shameless images of us savoring delicious cured meats in Zagreb, gorgeous red wines in Dijon, heaps of olive oil drizzled pasta paired with sparkling Franciacorta wine in Brescia, unctuous and rich foie gras of Hungary, and most recently, the gorgeous fresh produce from Valencia. In large part, this is a direct result of our consulting business, affording us the “excuse” of visiting a vast array of new European cities under the guise of giving talks on the intersection of social media and wine. And yes, Ryan being our intrepid public speaker does a fabulous job of this, but I, as the writer, am smitten with any opportunity to see the world, taste its foods, drink its wines and steep in its diverse cultures. Budapest was no exception.

Having been invited to the 2nd annual VinCe wine and food conference, organized by Decanter Hungary, at the breathtakingly beautiful Corintha Hotel in Budapest, it’s quite difficult for me to sum up our experience in a few hundreds words. Unlike our trip to India, where we spent the majority of our time exploring the gritty and exotic streets of New Delhi on our own – reveling in the amazing cuisine and culture, Budapest was a bit of a royal carriage ride, where just about every moment was filled with pre-determined appointments at the finest restaurants, wineries and hotels. Though far from the norm, irregardless of where we went, not once did Ryan nor I comment on the poor quality of the food or service. And for a seven day trip, both inside Budapest and in the vast vine covered countryside, this speaks volumes for the quality of Hungarian gastronomy.

So, where to begin?

For a quasi-vegetarian such as myself, like Iberia, Hungary values its meat, and a meal is never complete without some animal flesh.

This basic Hungarian truth couldn’t have become more evident than at our very first dinner at the famed Tigris Restaurant, where our very first amuse bouche consisted of an orange mascarpone mousse with duck liver, followed shortly thereafter with the main course: an Angus hamburger topped with a thick slice of grilled goose liver and placed on a bed of potato puree and mustard sauce. This last dish was absolutely delicious, as the beef was perfectly moist with a firm sumptuous texture that melted in your mouth when combined with the ever-so-slightly charred liver; but it did set a precedent for our trip: that which did not moo, oink, quack or baaa was not invited to the party.

Unlike Spain, where olive oil is the standard in every household, you’ll find rendered goose, duck or pork fat in a Hungarian pantry. The cuisine, however, is not necessarily greasy or dripping in fat. When prepared well, the dishes can be light, flavorful and delicious.

One cannot talk of Hungarian cuisine without mentioning paprika. Crimson colored peppers hang ceremoniously from every stand at the market, are painted on small canvases adorning restaurant walls, are embroidered in gleaming white kitchen curtains that blow in spring breezes, and when ground to fine red dust, sits unceremoniously in every restaurant kitchen. Paprika is the national condiment, used in heaping spoonfuls for many Hungarian dishes; though ironically, we experienced very little of it.

Paprika was originally brought to Hungary after the 16th century, becoming a ubiquitous spice in every household in the late 18th, early 19th, century. This point is not debated, where the contention lies is twofold: who brought it to Hungary and is Hungarian paprika hot or sweet? Let’s begin with the ‘where.’ Rumor has it that the Turks were the first to haul Paprika to Hungary, whereby the name ‘Turkish Peppers’ was adopted. Another theory contests that it was the people of the Balkans who brought them when fleeing the marauding Turks, while another suggests that a farmer carried the seeds in his pouch from Bulgaria. In short, no one knows for sure. As to what defines Hungarian paprika, beyond the obvious – that it’s made in Hungary – one must appreciate the wide variety of pungency, ranging from sweet to mildly hot to searing your tastebuds off, depending of the quantity of seeds included the grinding.

According to Carloyn Banfalvi’s book, “The Food and Wine Lover’s Guide to Hungary“, who also happens to be our friend and Hungarian food guru, there are four types of Hungarian paprika: Különleges, a glowing red paprika, ground fine that comes in either mild or sweet; Csemegepaprika, a lighter paprika that is coarsely ground and can be either hot or mild; Edes-nemes paprika, a courser grind than Csemege with a smidge of heat and generally used for soups and stews; and last but not least, Rozsapaprika, an inky dark red paprika that’s known for its searing pungency. If compared to Spanish Pimenton, Különleges would be its closest relative, because although Spanish paprika is said to be sold hot (alongside the mild and sweet versions), we’ve never ever seen it.

As a result of its landlocked position, one doesn’t associate Hungary with fish. As emphasized above, it’s a land of Ungulates (hooved creatures), but the occasional fish dish does raise its scaly head – most especially at Restaurant Gundel. ”Oh dear Lord, they took you to that restaurant. I’m so very very sorry,” we heard on several occasions. Yes, clearly Gundel has failed to receive the accolades it so rightfully deserves today, in part due to previously failed management. For a centurion restaurant, it’s to be expected that time will wane innovation and creativity if new blood isn’t introduced, but I’m happy to announce, that it’s arrived: pumping fiercely with vibrant life and passion. Whether we’re speaking of the incredible ambiance, with old school decor, or the quintet of strings – adding ambiance to the evening, or the phenomenal food and service, it’s absolutely worth a trip. One dish we particularly enjoyed, though all were amazing, was the “Home Smoked Sturgeon Filet with Caviar Sauce.” Imagine two perfectly tender and juicy sturgeon filets drizzled with a slightly sweet and salty mint green caviar sauce and topped with fresh herbs and greens. Gorgeous. Granted, the “Essence of Guinea-fowl with Stuffed Morels” made me swoon. Mind you, this restaurant wouldn’t have nearly garnered our praise if it weren’t for Mihály Fabok the award winning sommelier who created a gastronomical experience well beyond our expectations. I think Ryan summed it up best when reflecting upon the evening, “Gabriella, I don’t think I’ve ever had a more perfect wine and food pairing in my life.” In short, another must visit, or revisit for you naysayers.

Next up, an unexpected slice of foodie heaven. How often do you travel in the middle of the countryside under the guise that you’ll stumble upon a restaurant with exceptional cuisine?  When it came to a casual lunch at Kistücsök, located alongside Lake Balaton, in middle of nowhere Hungary, we ran home screaming, “That was one of the best meals of our lives!”

Kistücsök’s exquisite dish of smoked lamb’s tongue with Kohlrabi was a knee buckling experience. Sliced paper thin, the meat simply melted on your tongue, and when paired with the slightly bitter flavor of the Japanese Kohlrabi, it rendered the table speechless, literally. Another favorite included a soft, perfectly cooked pike filet wrapped in crispy ink colored bread crumbs, spritzed with lime, and accompanied with bean sprouts and tartar sauce, an absolutely brilliant experience. According to restaurant owner, Balázs Csapody, quality ingredients, along with international travel to remain inspired and passionate, is what makes Kistücsök unique. “We motivate others to use the raw materials of our region, and maintain close and trustful relationships with the producers, fishermen and winemakers of the region. Our mission is to connect them with each other, thereby promoting the wine and food culture to its deserved place in this area,” he said. Sound advice and beautifully exemplified.

Ever heard of Mangalitsa (US spelling), Mangalitza (UK spelling), Mangalesa (Spanish spelling) or Mangalica (original Hungarian spelling) pork? Neither did we until our trip to Hungary. I don’t want to get too deep into the subject, as I’ll be doing a feature article on it at later date, but imagine the Spanish Pata Negra Pig overdosed on Rogaine. Yes, our Hungarian pig is all hair, all the time, but it produces some of the most delicious meat you’ve ever wrapped your lips around. Also known as the “curly hair hog,” the Mangalica was hugely popular in Hungary prior to the 1950′s for its lard, until it almost reached extinction. But due to the combined efforts of a Spanish-Hungarian company who envisioned making a killer Jamon Serrano, Hungary now boasts of its 50,000 strong pig population.

During our lunch at Sárga Borház, also known as the Little Yellow House and part of the famed Tokaj producer, Disznókő, Ryan sunk his teeth into a Mangalica tenderloin with potato pancakes immersed in a rich, locally produced goat cheese. Slightly seared on the outside, the meat was flavorful, and juicy. Their menu actually boasts of three Mangalica dishes, each paired with either a sheep, goat or cow cheese, which begs the question, is this a traditional way of serving it?

The Paloc (a cold green pea and sour cream concoction) and Körteleves Zsályás Mascarpone Habbal (Cold pear soup with sage and mascarpone cream) are also noteworthy, if not downright delicious. I should take a moment to emphasis soup as an integral part of the Hungarian diet. As emphasized by Carolyn, “To most Hungarians, a meal just wouldn’t be complete if it didn’t begin with a bowl of soup.” The most typical of Hungarian soups is a called Húsleves, a hearty consume made with beef, marrow, carrots, parsley root, celery root and black pepper, and served over egg noodles. You’ll find several different types of consommé, in addition to vegetable soups, chilled fruit soups, or traditional holiday soups, such as Lencseleves, a lentil soup enjoyed on New Years. The key to Hungarian soups is simplicity and frugalness. Rather than add various ingredients, only to toss them once the broth has reached its peak, Hungarians preserve and consume everything. “They’d never think of throwing out the vegetables that were cooked in stock, as the French traditionally do. Instead, soup is started with plain water. Hungarians often add hot paprika, sour cream, or a few drops of vinegar (or all three) to their soup at the table. To further fortify soup, additions like majgaluska (liver dumplings), daragaluska (semolina dumplings) or teszta (pasta) are added.”

Finally, Arany Kaviar, a charming and cozy little restaurant located in the west side of the river, just north of Vérmező Park. Having arrived after an incredible lunch at Kistücsök, our appetite was limited at best. However, on trips like these, you seize the opportunity to experience absolutely everything you possibly can, because you’re never quite sure if, and when, you’ll ever find yourself back.

Founded in 1986, Arany Kaviar’s fame as the throne for caviar in Budapest wasn’t established until the management of Attila Molnar a decade later. With the culinary direction of Sasha Nyiri, the restaurant features French-influenced Czarist era cuisine highlighted by its plush and elegant interior that exudes romance. Thus, arriving to the restaurant in dirty vineyard garb was far from the ideal attire to enhance the decor; but fortunately, we were promptly excused for our haphazard state and given a shot of ice cold Russky Standart Vodka to cool our crimson cheeks.

The restaurant features several different types of menus including an 8 course Caviar Gourmet Menu, or the 5 course Tasting Menu, which we experienced. Dishes to note included the blini filled with smoked sturgeon cream topped with caviar, as well as the Ukrainian Borscht that was a slightly sweet and savory stew containing beetroot, cabbage and pork with a dopped of cream and topped with a baked brown garlic bread cap. I could happily live on this! And let’s not forget the lemon sorbet with soft caper cream topped with caviar. Honestly, it sounded revolting to me when I read it on the menu, but upon the first bite, the sorbet literally dances with the slightly sweet and savory caper cream, while the caviar simply accentuates the experience with its brilliant texture and rich flavor. It was one of the those experiences that you’ll never forget….or was that our experience in Budapest as a whole?

In conclusion, what can I say? Not only is Budapest absolutely stunning, but the food culture is phenomenal! Keep in mind that this is just a tiny little snapshot of what Hungary offers, but hopefully, it will inspire you to visit. A huge thanks goes to Agnes Nemeth, the Chief Editor at Decanter Hungary for being a stunning host, and we’ll be posting a follow-up article on the wines in the near future. Additional thanks go to Carolyn Banflavi for not only being an incredible chef, providing us with a fabulous meal at her house, but also for being an amazing culinary guide. Without her book, Food Wine Budapest, which should be updated shortly, we’d be gastronomically lost – a horrific thought indeed! Also take a moment to check out her website, as both she and her husband, Gabor, offer fabulous food and wine tours throughout Hungary. And finally, if you’re keen to follow a sassy food blogger based in Budapest, make sure you head towards Molly Hovorka’s blog, Baking in Stilettos.

Cheers,

Gabriella Opaz

Restaurant Tigris
1051 Budapest, Mérleg u. 10
+36 1 317 3715
info@tigrisrestaurant.hu
www.tigrisrestaurant.hu

Gundel Restaurant
Állatkerti út 2
1146 Budapest, Hungary
+36 1 889 8100
info@gundel.hu
www.gundel.hu

Kistücsök
Bajcsy Zs. u. 25
Balatonszemes, Hungary, 8636
+36 84 360 133
kistucsoketterem@t-online.hu
www.kistucsok.hu

Sárga Borház
Tokaj Disznókő dűlő
+ 36 47 369 029
jfortuna@freemail.hu
www.sarga-borhaz.hu

Arany Kaviar
1015 Budapest
Ostrom Street 19, Hungary
+36 1 201 6737
reservation@aranykaviar.hu
www.aranykaviar.hu

(all flights, accommodation and most meals were paid for by Decanter Hungary – photos by Ryan Opaz)

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Editor’s Note: As mentioned in Part 1 of this series, although this article is not directly related to either Spanish or Portuguese wine, we feel it’s important to occasionally give you a head’s up on various other wines we stumble across around the world. This article is based on a trip we took to Zagreb per the invitation of the Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival to speak about social media and wine. If you have any questions, please make sure to contact our residential experts listed at the bottom of the post. Cheers!

Having given you our very basic culinary impressions of Croatia, it’s now time to move onto wine, a vinous delight in Croatia! Mind you, our time both in Zagreb and at the Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival was incredibly limited, but from the hodge-podge of wines we tasted, ranging from phenomenal to quaffable, there was an undeniable trend towards quality.

I suppose the best way is to explain Croatian wine is that it’s generally broken up into two wine areas: coastal (Primorska) and continental (Kontinetalna). 90% of the wines produced in the Continental region in the north of Croatia are white, and of those white wines, the native grape Graševina is the most widely planted. Other aucthonomous grapes include: Dišeća Ranina, Moslavac (aka, Šipon, Pušipel), Plavec Žuti and Škrlet. The remaining 10% consist of several international red varieties such as Blaufrankisch, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, but sadly, nothing indigenous to Croatia. Of the 7 sub-regions in the continental area look out for Slavonia (which is NOT Slovenia, a common error I made when not vigilant) and Zagorje.

Along the southern, southwestern and western coast along the Adriatic Sea, which includes 1,100 the islands, you’ll find the famed Croatian red wine region. Coastal Croatia embodies 5 wine-growing sub-regions that are further subdivided into 31 viticultural areas called “wine-growing hills” (vinogorje). Along the northern coast, and Istria, you’ll find the local red variety Teran (related to Italian Refosko), as well the acclaimed Malvasia Istriana grape and Yellow Muskat. In southern Dalmatia, the red variety Plavac Mali is especially famed, as is Pošip on the Island of Korčula.

Admittedly, as this was our first time in Croatia, we were a little overwhelmed by the numerous grapes and regions we couldn’t pronounce or recognize. Unlike taking a trip to France, chockfull of a million tiny regions you’ve never heard of, the grapes and general winegrowing areas are undeniably well known. Croatia, on the other hand, was like taking a trip in the world of Charlie and Chocolate Factory, where every bottle contained a new grape, a new region and a new producer. However, there were some rising star grapes that are worthy of chatting about!

Plavac Mali (pronounced Plahvahts Mahlee) is said to be a cross between Crljenak Kaštelanski (Zinfandel) and Dobričić, Plavac Mali tends towards higher alcohol wines (almost never below 13%) with low acidity and big tannins – a statement I can attest to! Prior to visiting Croatia, it was suggested by Croatian wine lovers that we seek out this dominate grape, as a result of its versatile character and overall quality. However, of the dozen or so we tried, we generally found these wines to either be absolutely stunning, or at times, hot – where the alcohol failed to integrate successfully. There were, however, a few examples that we fell in love with, including the Madirazza, Dingač barrique 2006 and the Korta Katarina 2007 Plavac Mali from Pelješac, South Dalmatia. Interestingly, Plavac Mali is the only Croatian variety that does not have the name of the grape on the bottle when produced from quality regions, but instead, the area where it comes from. Keep your eyes out for the regions of: Dingač, Postup (Pelješac) and Ivan Dolac (Hvar).

Of particular interest for us was the rare grape Babić (bah-bich), an indigenous red grape variety of Northern Dalmatia. This grape loves poor stony soils and tends to thrive on the ancient terraced slopes of the Bucavac vineyard, a UNESCO World Heritage List site under the Protected Cultural Landscapes category. While Babić is thought to be related to Dobričić, these wines tend to be more refined and elegant with a earthy dark fruit character showing loads of spice, dried figs, herbs and cigar box. Make sure to look out for the Gracin 2008!

In regards to whites, the Graševina (Welschreisling) is the most planted white grape in Croatia, grown throughout the inland areas, but most especially in the Kutjevo municipality and around Ilok. We, unfortunately, did not explore this grape enough to suggest any prime examples for you to seek out, but Anthony Rose did on a press trip to Istria a few years back. Allow us to point you in his direction to get a better understanding of its merits.

The Malvazija Istriana (or Malvasia) was by far one of our personal favorites! Once thought to be a relative of Malvasia (or Malmasy), which produces a sweeter style wine, Malvazija Istriana is a separate variety and shows its best when dry. Grown in Istria, along the Adriatic, it’s heaven in a bottle! We tasted amazing late harvest examples of this grape, not to mention big, bold austere whites that expressed amazing mature white fruit, minerals, dark spices and Mediterranean herbs such as oregano and sage. Fabulous discoveries included the Roxanich 2007 Malvasia Antica (unbelievable wine in the orange wine style of Italy), the Kozlović 2006 Malvasia Santa Lucia and the Clai Sv. Jakov Malvazija 2009.

Beyond the wines mentioned above, also seek out the 2007 Tomac Amfora, a blend of rare, local varieties that showed unbelievably well, as did the wines from Misal. Based in Istria, we had the opportunity to try a wide range of Misal sparkling wines, of which the Misal Blanc des blanc and Misal Millennium were most notable.

What we’re mentioning here doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface as to what we experienced, but it’s clear that we’ve caught the “bug”. We’re eager to explore the coastal regions now, spending time in both Dalmatia and Istria.

If you’re interested in seeking out more information on Croatian wine, please don’t seek us out, we’re much better suited to help you in Spain and Portugal. Instead, go to some very qualified individuals, such as Cliff Rames. Cliff is the founder of Wines of Croatia, and succinctly summed up Croatian wines in a recent interview by saying, “I believe that once people hear the story of Croatia and the winemakers, see the beautiful places where these grapes grow, and taste the terroir and character in these wines, Croatia will become a player on the world wine scene. I truly believe that – I wouldn’t be doing this if I didn’t!” We couldn’t agree more. The following names are linked to their Facebook page for more information:

Cliff Rames: The father of the Croatian wine movement in the USA, as well as the Wines of Croatia website

Darrel Joseph: Based in Vienna, Darrel has a soft spot for Croatian wines and has dedicated much of his recent work to this country.

Saša Špiranec: One of Croatia’s leading wine writers, who is not only an expert, but a wonderful guide.

And if you have any Croatian wines you suggest seeking out, please let us know!

Cheers,

Gabriella Opaz

(all flights, accommodation and most meals were paid for by the Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival)

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Editor’s note: Occasionally, we take a trip far from the Iberian Peninsula to explore uncharted territory for Catavino. Croatia was one such country. Hence, though not directly related to Spain or Portugal, this 2 Part series hopes to provide you with a glimpse as to what lies outside the Iberian border.

When I say Croatia, what comes to mind? Anything? More than likely your mind conjures a blank slate when this word trips off your tongue, a desert of impressions that leave the most cultured among us crimson in embarrassment. But you’re not alone, at first, my mind conjured lush green forests blanketing undulating landscape, among waterfalls, small hilltop towns and narrow dirt paths. But after a few minutes, dramatic scenes of war and political unrest snuck into my perfect world of virgin nature to create cities laid to waste in total and complete destruction from WWII, Croatia War of Independence and Communism. Essentially my imagination was that of a geographic and cultural jigsaw based on the occasional New York Times article, recounts from the passing tourist and the random native I might met on a given press trip. In short, I knew absolutely nothing other than heresay and assumptions.

Having been invited to the Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival to give a talk on social media, both Ryan and I were excited to broaden our cultural horizons. We had heard of Croatia’s amazing wines, the kindness of the people and the strength of the culture, but what we didn’t comprehend was that despite our capacity to comprehend a fair number of languages, it was one of the first times we were totally handicapped when walking through the luggage terminal. In non-latin based countries, such as Norway and the Czech Republic, our friends and family were our steadfast translators; but in Zagreb, we were inundated with characters, sounds and intonations of a language we couldn’t even begin to sort through such as: ča, kaj and što, three different ways of saying “what”. Granted, due to its proximity and history with Italy and Austria, many Croats are fluent in Italian and/or German, but neither languages were used on restaurant menus or street signs. So eventually, I adopted the Russian Roulette principal when choosing my dinner menu. Closing my eyes, I made circles with my index finger above the various entrees, hoping to land on something both delicious and traditional. This theory occasionally worked, but it also led me almost ordering ketchup as a main course.

Language issues aside, we did stumble across some incredible Croatian foods that we hope you’ll have an opportunity to try one day. So let’s begin with the wide range of cured meats and cheeses gracing Croatia’s menus. Coming from Spain, we’re rather particular about what cured meats should grace our lips, but Croatia didn’t fail to satisfy, especially when it came to their smoked meat! In Iberia, the idea of smoked meat is rare, if not odd. Only Idiazabal, a smoked cheese from the Basque country, shows up with any regularly. But as Americans, smoked meats and fish are part and parcel of who we are, We also discovered their homemade salamies; a slightly sweet boiled ham called Kuhana šunka; a spicy pork sausage from Turopolje called Češnjovka, infused with garlic and paprika; a thick and flavorful pancetta called, Špek; and let’s not forget Pršut.

Mind you, there are several different variations of pršut, which include: Dalmatinski pršut, Istrian pršut and Istarski pršut. Istarski pršut is left to dry with the help of the Bura winds, while Istrian pršut is first rubbed with salt, pepper, laurel, rosemary and sometimes garlic, to preserve it, and then dried by the Bura winds. Finally, there is the Dalmatinksi pršut which varies from being smoked, semi-smoked or air-dried. As to which one we savored, I’m going to have to go with the Dalmatinski pršut as the sweet smoked aroma wafted from the fork as we savored our first bite.

Of all the cured/aired/smoked meats I enjoyed, my favorite was Češnjovka, in part because our access to spiced meats is extraordinarily limited in Iberia, and having enjoyed Chorizos from Mexico when living in the States, spice is a craving I’ve never been able to shake.

As for cheeses, Paški sir is a famous sheep’s milk cheese from island of Pag that resembles a cross between Manchego and Pecorino. A touch more moist than the former, and slighter sharper than the latter. Though incredible, Paški sir was not nearly as prevalent as the 1,001 different variations on curd cheese, the most typical being škripavac. I don’t think we’ve tasted so many types of curd cheese, integrated in just about every meal we savored. But none piqued my interest like Juha od štrukli did!

Štrukli is a Croatian appetizer that generally consists of curd cheese wrapped in pastry. As far as I’m aware, there are several different ways of enjoying it, most common being kuhani štrukli (boiled štrukli) and pečeni štrukli (baked štrukli) or simply štrukli. We, however, tasted Juha od štrukli, which is essentially a cottage cheese strudel soup. Despite sounding like a heart attack in the making, the soup is surprisingly light and creamy with only a touch of richness offered by the strudel.

Beyond meat and cheeses, we’ve heard whisperings of Croatia’s extensive fish culture that can be found along the Dalmatian coast. As we were in Zagreb, we unfortunately weren’t privy to such dishes, but the vast amount of perch, red and gray mullet, sea-bream, grouper and eel (to name a few) have been said to be phenomenal. Dependent on grilling techniques, and woods chosen, tastes can vary dramatically, but none are spoken more fondly of than the gradelavanje technique, which uses Dalmation olive oil in the grilling and roasting process. And personally, I can’t think of a better reason to visit Croatia if not for this technique alone!

Like Pedro Ximenez vinegar in Spain, or Piri piri in Portugal, Croatia is known to produce its own “must have condiment” called bučino ulje! We originally fell in love with pumpkin oil during our several trips to Austria last year, and was happily surprised to savor its nutty sweet flavor yet again in Zagreb served over radicchio and grilled cow’s milk cheese. Made by pressing roasted, hulled pumpkin seeds from a local variety of pumpkin, this dark viscous oil was also used in one of the best desserts I’ve ever experienced in my life! Grofičin sladoled (Countess’ ice cream) consists of homemade vanilla ice cream layered in a mountain of roasted pumpkin and sunflower seeds and smothered in pumpkin seed oil. Orgasmic wouldn’t even begin to describe this dessert. It was unreal!

However, it’s important to note that Croatian cuisine is a bit of a hodge podge when it comes to culinary influences; hence why it is known as ”the cuisine of regions”. When asking locals what was deemed authentic to Croatia, I received conflicting accounts as to originated in Croatia and what trickled over from Venice, Austria, Turkey, Greece, Italy and France. You will encounter obvious adoptions such as homemade pasta, schnitzel and blood sausage, as well as not so obvious dishes such as Đuveč, a roasted vegetable dish similar to Ratatouille.

So there you have it, an incredibly brief up! However, being that we aren’t the Croatian wine and food experts, allow us to guide you to those who truly are. These include: Morana Zibar, author of Gurwoman, and Marinela Prodan of Enogastromama who were kind enough to give us many pearls of wisdom while in Croatia. These knowledgable food bloggers are not only on Facebook, but also speak fabulous English if you have a culinary question.

Finally, if you’re in need a of tour in Zagreb, make sure to contact Jelena Bulat at Eudemon – we’re still reeling after the comprehensive 3+ hour city tour she provided for us.

Continue with Part 2 HERE

Cheers,

Gabriella Opaz

(all flights, accommodation and most meals were paid for by the Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival)

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Watching the snowflakes fall slowly to the ground from a warm and cozy kitchen in Minnesota, we couldn’t be happier to finally be among friends and family. A year away from home is a little torturous, in part, because our hot dish consumption goes down radically. Plus, we tend to go a little stir crazy without our annual dose of spicy chicken wings with gobs of blue cheese and a cold beer. Sure, it may not beat an evening of tapas paired with a bone dry Fino, but as Midwesterners, we need to restock on our ancestral cuisine.

That said, we want to wish you all a very Happy Holiday season, filled with amazing wines, comfort food and the warm embrace from those you love. And of course, we’d love to hear what constitutes cozy holiday cuisine for you!

Till soon, with more Iberian gastronomic treasures!

Gabriella and Ryan Opaz

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Live in Iberia long enough and you’ll quickly realize that cozy is not part of their lexicon. Neither the Portuguese, nor the Spanish, have adopted a word that fully encompasses a term that is intimately familiar to colder climate regions. Cozy to me connotates a sense of comfort, warmth, ease, relaxation and peace. It might be exemplified by a candlelit restaurant with a roaring fire, dark wood furniture, heartfelt laughter, and of course, a thick lingering aroma of grilled meats and roasting garlic among subtle notes of wine glasses chiming in celebration. In many ways, I equate cozy with a sense of home.

Throughout the past 6 years we’ve lived in Iberia, I can’t say that I’ve ever truly felt a sense of coziness. Iberia has embodied an odd mix of intense Latin passion as seen in their big, bold red wines, with a gentle Mediterranean light-heartedness experienced in their fresh and vibrant sparkling wines. Spain and Portugal have seduced me with their delectable goat cheeses, their bone dry Finos, their fresh fish and their stunning cured meats. We’ve also learned how to live on the streets among friends enjoying impromptu concerts, long leisurely meals and fabulous afternoons spent playing in the sea. However, it wasn’t until we co-hosted the European Wine Bloggers Conference in Austria that I realized how desperately I’ve missed a sense of gemütlichkeit. (Flickr photo by Wien Wein)

Every year, Robert McIntosh of the Wine Conversation, along with Ryan and myself, organize an annual conference to unite social media influencers and wine professionals from around the world. This year’s conference was hosted in Vienna, Austria, where 200 passionate wine lovers from 30 different countries were not only able to learn about new innovations in the digital wine arena, but were also able to taste a wide variety of wines and foods from across Austria.

So how does Austria embody this delicious state of being. My limited experience with gemütlichkeit came in the form of a Heuriger, which refers to a traditional Austrian wine bar. Found in Upper and Lower Austria, Vienna and Burgenland, it refers to wines served from that vintage. In the south of Austria, however, such as Styria and southern Burgenland, a Heurigar is referred to as a Buschenschank and is a protected term referring to a private bar that only sells homemade wines. And if you come across a Mostheurige in Upper Austria and Lower Austria, you’ll find delicious mugs of homemade apple or pear cider. (Flickr photo by Ryan Opaz)

According to Angelika Deutch of Kulinarischer Salon, Gemütlichkeit has to do with something set deep inside an individual.

“It’s not the place itself, as there are a lots of cozy places around. It’s the simple things that cause Gemütlichkeit – a fire place, good music, a glass of wine can also give this feeling. But what you have seen at the Heuriger is a special thing, always a little bit if chaos, with everyone feeling good. You find this type of Heuriger only in the eastern parts of Austria; I suppose there is a kind of desperate feeling underneath. In Tirol where I live Gemütlichkeit is quite different. So it doesn’t necessarily depend on what you eat or drink, but rather how you do it.”

Historically, the Heuriger was created when a group of wine farmers from the town of Görz came together in a united front to Emperor Joseph II complaining that the local noble landlord was aggressively threatening them to sell his wines. Thus in 1784, the Emperor, in retaliation to the nobleman, allowed all farmers to have full rights to sell their own production. Hence, small bars were opened across Austria allowing farmers to peddle their vinous delights from “that year”.

Today, one can find Heurigers throughout Vienna selling everything from beer to wines from various outside sources. But traditionally, an authentic Heuriger will only sell wines from their local community and only during certain times of the year.

Having dined in 2 different Heurigers in Austria, one in Vienna and one in Reichersdorf, I can wholeheartedly say that I loved the warm, familiar atmosphere I felt at both places. In a tightly packed restaurant with large wooden tables, we feasted on enormous plates of roasted meats garnished with sauerkraut; piles of liver and pork weinerschnitzels served alongside mounds of freshly diced tomato, cucumber and potatoes; thick fillets of smoked salmon, and of course, freshly baked apple strudel. (Flickr photo by Ryan Opaz)

For Julia Sevenich, author of ‘Uncorked in the Alps‘, Gemütlichkeit is a word to describe a special feeling you might have in a homey place.

“When it comes to food I think if you think of the word ‘nourish’  not just in a physical sense, but on a deeper level – nourishment of the heart and soul and combine is with coziness and certainly a lack of hurry and hectic. For me, the dish that most embodies Gemütlichkeit is Wiener Tafelspitz – a tip of Viennese Pot au Feu made from a beef tri tip. First you have the broth and there are an entire array of things to put in the soup like frittaten, milzschnitten, tiny diced root vegetables, bone marrow, etc. Then you eat the beef also with an assortment of  side dishes like spinach, roasted potatoes, chive sauce and apple sauce with horseradish thickened with bread crumbs. Heartwarming, satisfying and leisurely. And what does one drink with Tafelspitz? A Grüner Veltliner or a dry Zierfandler!”

For me, the Austrian Rieslings gave me that homey feeling with their crisp acidity, delicate apricot and peach aromas and lush, full body. For example, the 2008 Riesling Steinmassl, Kamptal DAC Reserve, chock full of ripe stone fruit flavors, a touch of apple blossom and a lovely, vibrant, yet rich, citrus finish. Equally elegant and enticing was the 2006 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Urgestein that gave off an intriguing aroma of fresh hay intermixed with ripe banana and minerals. The acidity was bright and inviting, with great structure and a lovely stone fruit and citrus finish. Simple and inviting, the wine harkened to warm spring days relaxing among the wildflowers in the Rocky Mountains.

For Sylvia Petz, co-founder of the Austrian communications company Havel & Petz, Gemütlichkeit goes beyond Riesling to and can incorporate a host of Austrian wines that provide the perfect lubricant to a memorable evening.

“Gemütlichkeit to me means also coming home when it’s cold, having hot maroni (chestnuts) and a glass of wine which can also be a Grüner Veltliner, Zierfandler, Traminer or as well a Blaufränkisch or Pinot. Or, and that’s great and makes you warm inside, Glühwein (hot wine) if it is homemade (you boil up red or white wine with not too much sugar, cloves, cinnamon and a piece of lemon peel).”

Admittedly, I’m an avid fan of Glühwein, having first sipped upon it on a frigid, rainy day walking the streets of Prague in 2005 with my friend’s massive Labrador in tow. Savoring the rustic fruit and spices emanating from the fiercely hot plastic cup, we roamed the streets for hours taking in bustling streets, and simply made a detour to refill whenever my cup ran dry. It made my experience absolutely unforgettable. (Flickr Photo by Ryan Opaz)

In short, I suppose one could say that Gemütlichkeit is a state of being, a sense of belonging, community and contentment. The EWBC has always brought about a deep sense of friendship and appreciation for the many gifts in my life. And to have hosted it in a country that knows how to create a warm and inviting feeling, whether it be in a heuriger or a winery, I’m incredibly appreciative of the experience.

If you could choose a wine, food or experience that embodies Gemütlichkeit, what would it be?

Cheers,

Gabriella Opaz

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Some of you might remember last year, when we took part in a portion of a Lindblad Expedition from the north coast of Spain around the coast of Galicia to Porto, and finally disembarking in Lisbon. 5 days and nights filled with food, wine, culture and lazing on a boat ship, with fine seas and sunny skys. Obviously, our experience carved out much of our expectations for this year’s trip, but little did we know that the seas can turn for the worst.

This year, fall weather brought with it a considerable amount of rain, which create “swells” – a word that has zero relationship to a happy, “swell” of a time. With Gabriella looking a fine shade of pea soup green, I sat pretty with my  stomach of steal, enjoying the waves crashing over the bow, while we slide up and down the sea walls.

Sadly, we did lose 2 glasses of a delicious Marselan rosé we picked up in St. Jean de Luz when the boat was hit by some rather impressive waves, though by the grace of the sea gods, the bottle was saved! A few passengers also had a rather rough go of it as they found themselves tipped backwards, legs up and thoroughly saturated in wine. But in the good spirit of perpetual sea-goers, jokes were promptly made that we could save the remaining wine by ringing drenched garments into glasses.

Our main mission on the ship, beyond enjoying the expansive buffet, was to educate the intrigued masses about Iberian wine. A few night ago, we slowly walked 100 seafarers though 7 very distinct and diverse wines, 3 of which were paired with tapas:  Mestres Visol, Equipos Navasos Manzanilla and a Garnatxa from Vinyas Aspres. Granted, it’s pretty hard to go wrong with tapas, but to our advantage, the boquerones were huge, juicy and tasted sweet like candy, while the Iberian jamon was perfectly buttery and delicious. Hence the appreciation for the food was equal, if not greater, to the appreciation for the wines.  Only the Sherry took a few odd glances, but this is to be expected.

After tapas, Ryan taught an hour long course on Spanish wines tasting wines from Rioja, Montsant and Rueda. The course was short and basic, but many people had very thoughtful and poignant questions to share. Some had never considered Spanish wine before and were elated to take their first sip. But interestingly, the number one compliment was that we not only the wines, but the food and culture of each region. I think it confirmed my belief that a tasting note is the least effective way of selling a wine. Rather, you need to tell a story, and share a bigger picture to really get people to fall in love with it.

Today, having watched Gabriella swim in sub freezing temperatures off the Islas Cies, we’ll be pouring 2 port cocktails: rose port with soda and a thick orange wedge and a white port over ice with tonic and a lemon slice.

Tomorrow, we’ll be getting off at Porto, to visit a cellar and to teach a bit about Portuguese wines, and then we’re off in Lisbon. The trip is too short, but our inboxes are bursting with too many EWBC related matters to really take any more time. That said, it’s a nice break from the norm and a great way to charge up the batteries into the final stretch.

Stay tuned while we post more on our adventures in the near future!

Cheers from some where on the Iberian coast line,

Ryan and Gabriella Opaz

Fun video!

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We’re embarrassed to admit that after 6 years of living in Spain, we have yet to visit one of the most important culinary treasures in the Spanish Crown, San Sebastian. Exalted around the world, and spoken fondly of by every traveler we know, we are proud to say that we will finally be there for a short visit at the end of September. However, we need to know what to do, what to see, where to visit, and what to taste? So we are asking all of you, our loyal readers and fellow “virtual travelers”, to share your suggestions with us. If we have one long day/night, or if we get lucky, 2 days to explore, we’re looking for the following:

• Best Walking tours/routes
• Places to Stay (affordable): Any secret hotels/b&b’s that are off the beaten track or worth seeking out?
• Tapas: What have you enjoyed? What can we not miss?
• Culture: Museums? Barrios? Food Markets?
• Nature: Gardens? Secret Terraces? Hideaway Beaches?

We’re fully aware that we’re trying to cram a lot into a very short time slot, but such is life. Please, leave your ideas in the comments below, and we’ll collate the best ones to create our ideal mini trip. We’ll also make sure to give you credit in the articles that we write after our weekend in San Sebastian! And if you happen to be in San Sebastian the 29th and 30th of September, let us know, we can go crawling together!

Thanks for the help!!!

Ryan and Gabriella Opaz

Photo Credit: Joanjoc

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Approximately a year ago, we almost lost the opportunity to attend the NAWBC 2009 as a result of a missed flight. Our stress and frustration only mounted when the realization barreled down on us that our tasting at the famed Portuguese restaurant, Aldea, in New York was the following day. With tickets eventually in hand, our first time to New York was primarily spent in a taxi cab, lacking anything in the way of tourism.

This year, however, we completed our goals! We savored a gigantic bagel, an amazing Thai meal and the opportunity to see a small slice of the city on foot. We meandered through Grand Central Station with our mouths agape, spotted few dozen historic buildings, strolled through lush parks, and enjoyed two very fine tastings: 1 hosted by us, the other by our friend Adrian Murcia the man that used to be behind the blog, Blame it on Rioja. Unfortunately, the blog is no longer in existence, but his work for the Vibrant Rioja campaign is still going strong!

So to say we’re having fun is probably a bit of an understatement. Things are going smoother, we’re traveling with friends, and we’re having a fabulous time!

But what exactly happened in New York?

New York City needs no introduction, and we’re enormous fans of its diversity and culture. I think Gabriella went into a mini orgasmic fit when we were confronted with multiple authentic Asian restaurants to dine at during our first night in Midtown. Our first night was spent dining on steamed vegetable dumplings, spicy crab cakes, spicy seafood noodles, green curry tofu and rice and a scrumptious duck dish alongside a delicious bottle of Alsatian Gewurztraminer. This was followed by a pint of a nice IPA, where Ryan had his own mini fit, and ended at 10pm as our heads hit the pillow some 21 hours after we left our home in Terrassa that morning.

Day 2 was an uncharacteristic 6am wake up followed by an early morning stroll to get our first real New York bagel with lox. About as big as Gabriella’s lovely head, it was pure heaven. With a half pound of thick cream cheese, and the most succulent lox you’ve ever experienced, we savored every bite surrounded in the lush and green Madison Square Park. The rest of our day consisted of meanderings and wanderings as we walked up and down Midtown, appreciating everything we normally can’t find in our wee little Peninsula of Iberia.

Come evening, with the support of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, and the organizational wizardry of Brand Action Team, we hosted a tasting at the Austrian Wine Cultural Forum to kick off the 2010 EWBC in Vienna this fall. Over 40 wine enthusiasts, photographers, journalists, bloggers and the like enjoyed over 30 wines from across Austria as we nibbled on little bites of Wienerschnitzel. It was an incredibly fun event, and one appreciated not only for the wines, but for the opportunity to spread the good word about how wine enthusiasts can use the internet effectively by attending the NAWBC and EWBC. We both have to say that the field blends ROCKED! More info on these vinous treasures in a future article.

Finally, as the clock bell chimed 9pm, we found ourselves alongside Chef Mark Tafoya spending the rest of the evening at a bbq and Rioja wine blowout. 50+ young and fashionable professionals in the NYC hospitality scene streamed into a gorgeous 2 floor apartment in Manhattan to experience Rioja wines. Complete with a DJ, we ate hearty amounts of barbecued beans and brisket, while sipping upon the 2000 Lopez de Heredia rose – one of many wines featured at the event. The goal of the tasting was simply to show the fun side of Rioja, pairing fresh and exciting summer wines like the Muga rose with everyday American fare. It was a great time, and lovely way to end our last evening in NYC.

As we type this we’re en route to Seattle, where we’ll host another tasting at Daniel’s Broiler tomorrow evening before heading to the North American Wine Bloggers Conference in Walla Walla, Washington. We’ll provide you more updates in the near future, and if you’d like to see the Austrian wines we tasted last night, just head over to Adegga.

Cheers,

Gabriella and Ryan Opaz

First New York Bagel from Ryan and Gabriella Opaz on Vimeo.

Tasting a bagel in Madison Square Park

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Prior to last weekend, my concept of Italy was based on a precarious mix of films. I envisioned romantic scenery, with undulating hills and scattered bursts of brightly colored wild flowers, as experienced by Diane Lane in “Under the Tuscan Sun“. Soprano-esque natives would greet me with gold adorned fingers, bushy gray streaked pompadours and the occasional twitch of their shoulders wrapped tightly in black polyester shirts with the obligatory, “Hey, how you doin’?”. And finally, a perfectly soft and round grandmother smelling of grassy sweet olive oil and rustic Mediterranean herbs would serve me plates of handcrafted pasta. In short, my vision was an odd mix of cliches, interconnected by a deep and heart wrenching nostalgia experienced by friends and family alike who had stepped on Italy’s rich soils.

Oddly enough, my preconceived notions weren’t that far from the truth. Sans Tony Soprano, the scenery and food culture were almost spot on! However, though Grandma did exist, and spoke lavishly of her handmade pasta, I never did have the opportunity to taste her secret recipe.

Catavino landed on Italian soil last weekend, as we were invited to speak at an event organized by Media 140 at the Perugia International Journalism Festival - a massive and incredibly well organized 5 day conference now in its 5th year. Our particular event was set in a 13th century hall called, the Sala dei Notari, where the Perugian noble elite met under vibrant frescos depicting biblical scenes and Aesop’s fables. For our first experience in Italy, the setting was not only impressive, but downright humbling. And this doesn’t even speak of Perugia itself, a strikingly beautiful hilltop town of Etruscan origin that overlooks the lush and rolling hills of Umbria. Nor does it comment upon our hotel, the Brufani Palace, which provided us a jaw dropping perspective of Perugia, and its quaint rooftop gardens complete with gracefully positioned cats, far from the reach of their canine neighbors.

Of the 20 political region in Italy, Umbria is the only Italian region which is both landlocked and with no common border with other countries. Nestled up to Tuscany to the west, the Marche to the east and Lazio to the south, you couldn’t pick a more remote location for a conference. However, despite its rather remote position from any major airport, it was perfectly situated to give participants an authentic sense of both culture and place.

Where the true magic came for both Ryan and I was our trip to the Umbrian countryside on Sunday where we visited the sacred town of Assisi, the Cantina Novelli winery located in Montefalco, and the Melchiorri Olive Oil Estate in Madonna di Lugo near Spoleto.

I won’t speak too much of Assisi other than to say, visit it! If you’re a lover of art, passionate about beauty, obsessed with quaint medieval towns and desire a sense of awe, then you must experience Assisi for yourself. For someone who is neither religious, nor who appreciates gory religious scenes, as depicted in churches across Iberia, Assisi provides a completely different experience. Renowned as being the birthplace of St. Francis of Assisi, who founded the Franciscan religious order in the town in the 13th century, as well as the founder of the Poor Clares, Assisi exudes tranquility, peace and meditation. It’s a place of quiet thought, of cozy medieval shops and steep, windy roads. And if I had the opportunity to pack up my bags today and move for a stretch of time, I would gladly plant myself in Assisi where I could overlook the vineyards; smell the rich aromas of rosemary, thyme, marjoram, basil and mustard; taste freshly baked brioche and handmade pasta; and sip upon regional wines!

However, our memorable trip to the countryside would not have been possible if it weren’t for Giulia Luccioli, the Export and International Marketing Manager for the Cantina Novelli winery, who we met at our talk on Saturday. Kindly offering to be our guide for the following day, she and her son patiently drove us through the Umbrian countryside, giving us the occasional historical and cultural lesson whenever needed – which was frequent, and I’m sure tedious. She also gave us our first and only tour of an Italian winery.

Cantina Novelli is a family run winery nestled within the hills of Montefalco. The vineyards, approximately 56 hectares strong are primarily located in the heart of the DOCG zone, Montefalco, and comprised of Trebbiano Spoletino, Grechetto and Pecorino for white varieties and Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Sangiovese and Sagrantino for reds. The mission of the winery is to recover and promote native varietals of their region, becoming an ambassador for their cultural heritage through various projects. One of these projects, as explained by Giulia, is to recover and actively promote Trebbiano Spoletino with the support of Professor Attilio Scienza of the University of Milan. “It’s a quality grape that deserves recognition, and we need the support from the community in order to promote it internationally.”

What’s interesting to note, is that the ubiquitous white grape Grechetto varied tremendously for Ryan and I depending on where it was grown and who was producing it. Having tasted several versions over the course of the three days in Umbria, we found it to show incredible barnyard characteristics, emphasized by aromas of wet horse or hay, to lush ripe peach and citrus aromas. It was a grape that both intrigued and confused us. As Ryan accurately stated during the Umbrian wine tasting that evening, “I’m not sure if I’m amused by its peculiarity, or whether I actually enjoy its rustic personality.”

For me, the same held true for the famed regional red grape, Sagrantino. Like the Portuguese grape Baga, Sagrantino is capable of sucking any ounce of moisture from your palate with its larger than life tannins. Though capable of being tamed into an elegant and succulent wine, able to withstand the richest and fattiest of foods, it’s not for weakhearted. However, this very same grape can also be made into a killer rosado sparkling wine that is fabulous and worth looking into. Check out our impressions of Cantina Novelli’s wines here.

The olive oils of Umbria are equally as enticing and quality driven. Our adventure in the world of Italian olive oil took place at the Melchiorri Olive Oil Estate, where Rosanna Milone, a representative for the regional government of Umbria, became our second trusted guide of the day. She helped translate the history of the Melchiorri family who has been making olive oil for decades in the traditional method, and where 90% of their complete production is elaborated into extra virgin oil. Evidently, this is quite a feat!

We enjoyed 3 of their olive oils and a handful of their olive pastes; and to be honest, they were all incredible. Though both Ryan and I had a strong affinity for their black truffle paste which literally made us swoon; we also enjoyed the DOP Umbria I’Intenditore which showed a slightly bitter yet vibrantly grassy flavor.

We also happened to arrive on the day of their olive oil festival, which included a government licensed group of volunteers called, La Bufera, able to be contracted to play traditional Umbrian music. A sassy group of musicians, they never failed to delight with their handcrafted instruments, and the occasional tumble into the shrubs when overly moved by their music. And though we didn’t witness any dancing by my favorite grandmother of the Melchiorri family, nor from her 2 sisters or their 94 year old mother – a family I’m convinced is perfectly preserved by their olive oil – we were able to see a few toes tapping and some hips swaying to the very odd beat.

Now, before I buy a plane ticket back to Italy, I better wrap up this article with a final comment on the food. FANTASTIC! Similar to Spain and Portugal, people appeared to take immense pride for their regional ingredients and cuisines; however, Italians seem to take it a step farther. In part, I think it’s because of the vast regional diversity, where each city seems to not only have a distinct culture, but a fierce pride for their culinary traditions. We tasted fantastic black truffles in both salsas and pasta; sharp and insanely intense Pecorino Toscano cheese (DOP); the slightly pinkish colored Prociutto di Norcia (IGP), which is a salted and naturally aged meat from the rump of mature hogs; the Salamini Italiani Alla Cacciatora (DOP), made from cured pork and must not exceed more than 2.4 inches in diameter and 8 inches in length, with a maximum weight of 11.6 oz; one of my personal favorites, Lenticchia di Castelluccio di Norcia (IGP), are delicious lentils made in various forms; and finally, Gamberoni al Lardo di Colonnata, which is a silky sweet lardon. Each of the regional foods I mentioned above have their own distinct region of origins.

In short, our trip was amazing, and if I haven’t enticed you to take a vacation to Umbria in this short novel, then I throw up my hands in defeat, all while hiding my broad smile knowing that there will be more for me when I return

If you’ve been to Umbria, what were the foods, wines and places not to be missed?

Cheers,

Gabriella Opaz

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Although we have written over a dozen articles on what you should experience in Lisbon, we have yet to focus on its monuments. As an Iberian wine and food focused website, whenever we visit a location, our palates tend to sway towards homemade recipes passed on from grandmother to granddaughter over generations; innovative culinary dishes; festivals highlighting regional delicacies; and of course, their vast and diverse wine culture. Historical landmarks generally fall off our radar when given only a few hours or days to explore an area, despite their key importance in telling a story about a people and their culture.

Consequently, when we received a video in the mail called, “Os Misterios de Lisboa: What a Tourist Should See“, we couldn’t resist sharing it with you. Based on writings by the acclaimed Portuguese author and poet, Fernando Pessoa, and directed by the famous Portuguese director, Jose Fonseca e Costa, the video takes you on a romantic tour of the city providing not only historical references of monuments in Lisbon, but also back stories on famous neighborhoods.

Born on June 13, 1888 in Lisbon, Fernando Pessoa came into the world with the rare ability to express himself fluidly. While the majority of us struggle with self expression, Fernando at the ripe young age of 15, won the “Queen Victoria Memorial Prize”, for his admission paper into the University of Cape Town. He published his first poem at 16, under the name of Charles Robert Anon (Anon was short for Anonymous), and left the following year to live indefinitely in his beloved hometown of Lisbon until his death in 1935. Fernando is renowned for his poetry, but was also deeply devoted to writing prose, drama, literary and political criticism, and philosophy.

The movie begins on the river Tejo, with a gorgeous view of the city from the choppy, clear waters. The colored houses blanket the horizon, with brilliant splashes of yellow, pink, beige, pale blue and white with bushy sprigs of green sprouting through the concrete scenery. The opening scene alone makes me want to go back, wishing I was lounging on a terrace along the coast with a fresh glass of espumante in hand. But over the course of the next hour, the pace intensifies, teaching me about 44 different monuments, churches, parks, castles, plazas, sculptures, museums and neighborhoods. Some, were simply mentioned as unique and interesting places, while others were explained in detail, with amazing footage of its interior and exterior. And what makes this video incredible, at least for me, is that I now know a series of locations that I desperately want to visit. For example:

• Camara Municipal: This is Lisbon’s city hall, also called the Paços do Conselho, which is absolutely stunning. Situated on the east side of the Praça do Municipio, and was originally built in 1774, but was completely burned down in 1863 and rebuilt in 1875. What makes this incredible, for one, are the ceiling decorations, created by famous Lisbon artists such as José Malhoa and Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro. The walls are wood paneled and covered in part with breathtaking wood carvings that only accentuate the lavish chandeliers and 30+ ft ceilings. Unbelievable!
• Convento do Carmo: Although I have visited this church once, I fail to remember the 16th century blue tiles, which I would love to see.
• Campo Grande: Over 1km in length and over 200m wide, to date, I’ve never seen this palm covered space dotted with rowboat filled ponds.
• Campo Pequeno: a bull fighting stadium that requires that the bull not be killed, but merely, thrown OVER the bullfighter onto its back through the mere strength and leverage of the bullfighter. Amazing to watch!
• Sao Pedro de Alcantara: Located on a hill in the NE part of the city, this park not only has a killer view, but it looks like a place I would love to have a picnic with a Dao red and linguiça.

On the negative side, there are a few aspects of this film that grated on us. First and foremost, the language makes a used car salesman sound tame. Comments such as: “3 majestically impressive naves”, “it offers animated scenes of lively interest”, “sumptuous organs”, “lavish woodwork”, are great when sprinkled conservatively in a film. However, because every sentence is a grandiose one, amplified with the dramatic tones of the string orchestra in the background, the movie can get rather tedious. I sort of felt as if at any moment, a drama would break out, and 13th century buildings would come alive with extravagant parades and acts of showmanship.

The second criticism is that the movie only highlights the old and never the new. Having visited Lisbon a half dozen times, I can honestly say that the new is just as enticing and incredible as the old. Take the Parque das Nações, which went through a massive transformation in the 1990′s as a result of the 98 World Expo, and is one of many new sites in Lisbon we love to visit. Mind you, we understand that the movie is based on the visions of Fernando Pessoa, which was clearly dated in the early 19oo’s, but we also think its important to at least mention the massive transformations that revamped the city over the last half century.

What’s absolutely brilliant about the project, however, is that they had the forethought to include a booklet that lists each area discussed in the film, along with places to visit around each monument, such as famous record stores carrying vinyls from beloved Fado singers, vintage clothing and shoe shops, restaurants highlighting traditional dishes, book stores devoted to poetry, hidden natural parks and so much more. All texts are provided in Portuguese, Spanish and English. In addition, you’re given a fold out map of the city listing every monument discussed in the video, along with an interior map of the metro system.

Dramatic script aside, the film is well done. So if you’re looking for a funky gift for that traveler or historian in your family, this just might hit the mark! You can order directly off their site through paypal, with shipping and tax included; or if you would like to win a FREE SIGNED COPY by the director, simply leave a comment telling us about your favorite experience in Lisbon. If you haven’t been to Lisbon, simply leave a comment

Cheers,

Gabriella Opaz

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