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Regional Profile – D.O. Cava

CavaThe other night, I was helping a friend out at her restaurant where they were hosting a large office party. To start off, the evening, everyone had a choice of either a Cosmopolitan or a glass of Cava. For the first half hour, people milled about drinking their beverage of choice and losing their glasses only to request a new glass. As the night progressed, I heard something that gave me pause,”Have you seen where my glass of Champagne has gone?” One gentleman mentioned to another, “Champagne? Didn’t they mean to say Cava?” Most likely they didn’t know the difference, and for that reason, I will try to provide some motivation as to why you should ask for Cava and not Champagne.

Cava is Spain’s sparkling wine, the name coming from the word for cave, which describes the vast network of caverns that house and age this noble beverage. It was in 1872 that Josep Ravento’s first started experimenting with producing wine in a way that was being done in Champagne France. As far as what Cava has in common with champagne, well, it sparkles and is made in the traditional method known as Methode Champenoise.

Beyond the basic process of making sparkling wine, the two styles differ drastically. D.O. Cava (referring to a quality wine region) happens to be tied to a specific practice of winemaking, rather than a region where wine is made. Champagne can only be made in the French region of Champagne and in the traditional method, whereas in Spain, you can make wine anywhere that has proven to produce good sparkling wine, as long as you adhere to the rules of the D.O.. For this reason, many people often get confused and assume that all Cava comes from its traditional home of the Penedes in Catalonia.

Today, there are over 8 regions that have Cava D.O. status, although almost 95% of production sources from the Penedes region. The regions include:

It’s important to point out that these are the areas that are allowed to call themselves “Cava”, but there are also many other areas in Spain that make great sparkling wine that cannot be called Cava. In fact, even within the above regions, you’ll find wines that are referred to as sparkling wine. Why? Mainly because the rules to make Cava are viewed by some as outdated and antiquated. Therefore winemakers choose to experiment and sell wine as a basic sparkling wine if they believe a rule broken can yield better results.

So what rules must they follow to be allowed to make this sparkling wine with the name “Cava”? Here are the basics:

These are the main rules and are followed by other minor rules, the process and the types of grapes that can be cultivated. To know Cava you need to know the big three grapes: Macabeo, Xarel.lo and Parellada, which are to Cava what Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are to Champagne. They give Cava the flavors and structure that make it unique and sets it apart from the crowd. Following these, you have Chardonnay, Subirat Parent or Malvasia Riojana. These are all white, and while you can use red grapes, they can only be used in the production of Rosé Cavas, and not in white wines like you have in Champagne. These grapes include: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Garnatxa, Monastrell, and Trepat.

However, there are basically three grapes you need to knowclick here for more information on these grapes:

So what is Cava like? Well it’s clearly unique. Often said to have a more acidic edge to it, the newer wines I´ve tasted show more of the lush creaminess that you find in the wines of Champagne. For me, it usually shows flavors of citrus, green apples, raw nuts at times, and in the best of them notes of cream, honey and flowers. Styles range from: Extra Brut, Brut, Dry (sec), Semi-dry and Sweet.

For the most part, there are a few brands that you can find just about anywhere and you probably have even tried them without knowing it. Freixenet and Codorniu are two of the oldest and popular Cava produces, and both offer Cavas that at the entry level have a great quality to price ratio. For around 10 euros or less you can find these wines in almost any wine shop in the world. Both offer great simplicity and are easy to drink. In a world saturated in high priced champagnes these little “sparklers” often do the trick and with less pain in the old pocket book.

When you find you like it or if you just want to start at a higher price point you’ll be rewarded by trying the higher priced Cava. Cava does take a lot of time to produce, so sadly, you often have to spend significantly more to get a truly good Cava, more so than with many other wines. Names to look for include: Raventos i Blanc, Albet i Noya and Mestres.

Basically, Cava is a great alternative to Champagne. Not that I don’t love Champagne, but you need variety to make life more fun. Next time you are at a party and drinking a sparkling wine of one sort or another, why not mention to your host how much you are enjoying the Cava and see if you can impart your newly found cava knowledge!

Cheers,

Gabriella Opaz

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