I’m writing, between sips of my morning bica, from a tiny coffee shop in the sleepy Lisbon neighborhood of Lapa. I look up from my computer screen and the Tagus River opens before me. Today the river is brooding and dark, swept up by strong winds. The water is choppy. I find freedom in Portugal’s […]
Beyond the Tagus River: In and Around Évora – Part I Read More »
Imagine a social event in Italy or Spain and you are likely to conjure up images of long lunches over copious glasses of wine, children running amok among 1,001 family members, a powerful mother figure who unequivocally has the final word, and ridiculous amounts of food. While these two countries share linguistic ties, a rich
Alghero: Where Catalan and Sardinian Cuisine Merge Read More »
Though it had been one of the rainiest and foggiest weeks I had ever spent in Portugal, on this particular day, the dreariness gave new meaning to the word “melancholy.” In no way was this suicidal ambiance any match for my mission to discover! I was booked for a trip to Viseu and absolutely nothing
Dinner in Viseu: Chewing Over Identity Read More »
There’s a little slice of Lisbon’s vibrant food scene in New York City these days thanks to Michelin star Chef George Mendes. For anybody that’s been to Lisbon lately, you’ll instantly pick up on the similarities between the haute cuisine hotspots chefs like José Avillez have created in the recent past with his acclaimed Belcanto
Michelin Chef Elevates Rustic Portuguese Cuisine in Manhattan Read More »
When I smell wood smoke from the neighborhood chimneys and the rain clouds open to finally release the much needed rain, I know it’s time to get to work with the summer’s bounty. This means many a Portuguese cozinha will become a haven for Portuguese doces such as jams, jellies, marmelada! The sticky, sweet, gem
The Art of Homemade Portuguese Jams and Jellies Read More »
Her arthritic hand gently traced the oblong scales and swooping contours, softly smiling at its whimsy. “It’s lovely,” she whispers,” the artist must feel the spirit of the ocean as much as I do. Even at its most terrifying, I’m always drawn to it…but I guess that’s true of most Portuguese.” Adjusting her bags, she twists her body to the
The “Gangsta” Graffiti Grandmothers of Portugal Read More »
Cadaqués is a beautiful white and blue fishing town two and a half hours north of Barcelona, and is considered by many to be the “Pearl of the Costa Brava.” The history of Cadaqués is tied into a long tradition of fishing, agriculture, and viticulture, so make the most of your time in this charming
Top Ten Authentic Dishes to Enjoy in Cadaqués Read More »
They say we should eat to live and not live to eat. But in Portugal, the line between the two becomes blurred. Eating fresh, whole, seasonal and locally-sourced may be ultra-trendy these days, but in Portugal, good eating is a deeply ingrained part of lifestyle and culture. Shopping for Portuguese ingredients at my local market
Where to Find Outstanding Fish in Lisbon! Read More »
It’ a gorgeous summer day in Barcelona, as I saunter mindlessly into the pharmacy with my aged Peruvian wallet in hand. Requesting 500mg of Ibuprofen, the pharmacist pushes her long chestnut hair behind her ears, gently wraps the box in a thick brown paper and tallies up my bill. “That’s two euros fifty,” she smiles through hot
Important Tips for Avoiding Petty Theft in Spain and Portugal Read More »
“You can see that these are smaller, and they form more of a cone-like shape than the traditional round clusters you’re used to seeing,” she says pointing to a delicate looking bunch of grapes hanging from a sturdy vine. “That’s because they’re Chardonnay grapes, while the ones on our left are Pansa Blanca.” The grapes
Escape to Alella: Come Savor this Small but Mighty Spanish Wine Region Read More »
It was a cool Lisbon summer night with a near-full moon, a breeze coming in from the Tagus River and friends coming over for dinner, life felt pretty good. Dinner parties happen to be one of my favorite pastimes, and Pete and I tend to make a solid team when it comes to hosting them
Discovering Dão Wines: The Burgundy of Portugal Read More »
Being single can be a blessing, or a curse, depending on what you’re looking for. Over the years, I’ve found it mostly liberating and occasionally frustrating, like the day you’re nixed from the Valentine’s couples-only discount at the Collisseum, because you’re a lonely party of one. Suddenly you envision an enormous arrow over your head with blinking
Top 10 Reasons Why Madrid is the Best Place to be Single Read More »
Housed in an 18th century baroque building, we leave behind the contrasting sleek interior of the bread and wine museum and step back onto the cobbled streets of the charming village of Favaios, where locals are taking respite from the intense July heat under red cafe umbrellas. We stroll towards the church as instructed and
Baking Bread with a Portuguese Grandmother Read More »
There is a saying in the Catalan language: sense foc no hi ha festa (without fire, there is no festival), and they aren’t exaggerating. Indeed, the region’s pyromaniacal bent may be the most evolved and embraced in the nation, yet flames, explosions, devils, and beasts play a role in many vaguely Christian celebrations all throughout
Flirting with Fire: Inside the Fire Festivals of Spain Read More »
I’ll be the first to admit that my parallel parking skills are equivalent to a one-armed blind monkey – slightly frenetic and directionless at best. If I’m able to squeeze into space in less than 45 moves, it’s a win! Fortunately for me, Portugal doesn’t require you to squeeze into one designated space marked with
Top 7 Tips for Driving in Portugal: Park Absolutely Anywhere! Read More »
