Algarve: A Gourmet’s Travel Guide
By Tretanz

To appreciate the Algarve’s love affair with food let’s tiptoe through a bit of history. The Algarve’s vast Atlantic coastline, influential in establishing its strong fish culture and industry was once, 1000BC (yes that far back), instrumental to trading. Its growing trade importance to Europe eventually resulted in making it prime territory for occupation. Romans, and later Moors invaded and their long-held occupations naturally influenced the region’s cuisine. Outward adventures followed with the first great explores, then a period when Portugal and Spain dictated much of what would become Europe, Vasco da Gama, Magellan and Christopher Columbus amongst others, required circumnavigation approval and to set sail on expeditions from Sagres (Cape St. Vincent).
Sagres situated in the west and southernmost point of the Algarve is where ships would not only launch, but return with exotic bounties of herbs, spices, and treasures from around the globe. On expeditions, explorers also colonized and created political ties with dynamically different cultures: Africa, Asia, India, which would continue to affect the region and country’s palate and culinary habits for centuries to come. Sagres, now a near desolate, part of the ‘Barlevento Algarvio’ (windward region) has become endeared by the surfing community and those looking for the peaceful calm only its cliffs and ocean breezes can offer. Its charm remains preserved with vast unspoiled beaches, quiet hideaways, and traditional restaurants, but for modern food adventurers, this is just the beginning of Algarve’s cuisine.
Today Algarve’s food, east to west, would be best described as a rustic twist to the Mediterranean, and very much from sun, earth and ocean. Traditional Algarvio’s insist on using the regions infinite nutrient resources and demand fresh, honest and unpretentious ingredients. Influences from its nautical and colonial past are heavily present with many recipes of bacalhau (salt fish), fresh caught fish and seafood. Touches of exotic lands are often seen with curries from India, piri piri and rich spices from Africa.
The Algarve’s city of Guia, as per locals, is where frango piri piri (spicy grilled chicken) got its fame, although it originated in Africa during the colonization period. Romans left their mark with olives, and olive oil and cheese production, of which you will find a dizzying selection. A Celtic carry over of meat preservation could be attributed to much of the regions love of linguiça and chouriço (cured sausages first marinated with herbs, wine and red spices). A long-ago Jewish community is known creating the popular stew sausage known as alheira (pork free garlic sausage). Moorish influences have prolonged throughout the region, with the grilling of meats and fish, strong uses of herbs: garlic, mint, thyme, cilantro, and spices: cumin, paprika, saffron – the list is long, very long. A large variety of nuts: almonds, pine nuts, as well as many varieties of fruits: oranges, figs, pomegranates and exotic varieties of berries are also part of this culinary mashup, and enjoyed fresh, and where possible dried to keep during winter months. Staples such as rice, grains, and beans also make a mark in both savory and sweet dishes. And we’re not done, yet. The region, and country, also appears to have a strange obsession with yogurt, every variety and possible flavor combination imaginable seems available; belief exists this too may be a carryover of Moorish influences.
Tired yet? We’ve finally reached desserts. The Algarvio’s sweet tooth is impossible to ignore, visitors who enjoy exotic desserts will undoubtedly be well severed. To start, tiny but elaborate bolinhos de amêndoa (handcrafted almond pastries) adorned in whimsical fashion, are the foremost source of regional culinary and creative pride. Sweets are sweet with exotic combinations, the diverse selection could be described as a culmination of the regions trading, circumnavigation and colonization history. Sweetening the pallet at meal’s end is characteristic, of course, an accompanying café. After dinner, desserts are enjoyed in the same fashion, but with an additional cheirinho (a scent) of the locally produced aguardente (burning water) or, its softer cousin, medronho (strawberry tree brandy). Like modern locals say, A MUST! And let’s not forget the wine.
Although the Algarve produces few wines, rare is a meal served without its company. The region’s wine consumption is affected by the warm climate; hot summer days call for super chilled beverages. Vinho Verde (light semi-sparkling wine) in white and white is a popular classic, though Algarve reds always have their place. Grilled fish and seafood; typically brushed with a garlic, cilantro, and olive oil mix, scents the region, as do steaming clay pots of seafood stew. Cerveja gelada (iced beer) is also common, as are ‘mini’s’ (small versions of regular beers). Mini’s let you pace yourself and ensure your full beer doesn’t overheat on those hot summer days…recall the earlier note of a food obsession. It may also, be a good time to mention when asking for water, the question of ‘natural’ (room temperature), fresca (chilled) or gelada (iced) may be posed. And on things iced, gelado (ice cream) is also very popular and can be found in a variety of unusual combinations. Coffee options have a complexity of their own but are chiefly the same as the rest of the country. Phew!
Now you have the basics of Algarve’s culinary delights. If we haven’t convinced you enough, here are 10 delicious reasons to savor Portugal, along with 20 must-try Portuguese dishes. If you”re craving tips to guide you expertly through the country, check out our Essential Guide to Traveling Portugal!
The Algarve is very social in both winter and summer. Summer months, however, see the regions population increase considerably from June to end of August. The region’s vibrancy and nightlife increased considerably. If fun in the sun is your mission, there will be no shortage of music and dancing until dawn. If looking for a quiet retreat there are equally countless refuges for peace and calm. Evenings start late, and bars and lounges can be open until the wee hours of the morning. Algarve summers have an indescribable romance with sea breezes cooling blistering days into refreshing evenings before the next day begins. Dinner, drinks, and dancing are common no matter the age. Venues often provide exotic ambiances and many have outdoor access and areas with sea views or open spaces for lounging and stargazing.
Dancing is available across the Algarve all summer long and the region can boast of many ‘up and coming’ local DJs. Known for its nightlife the region also regularly attracts internationally reorganized talent for concerts and festivals. Bar venues, with dancing, typically provide a membership card, entitling cardholder to one drink with entry fee. Cash is not accepted at door or throughout the evening; consumption is kept on a card and paid in full on exit. Drinks and cocktails can range from €5 to €15 depending on the venue. Lounge type bars work as per normal with cash on order, and prices depend on the venue. Coffee culture in the Algarve is heavily ingrained and enjoyed like the rest of the country.
Cafés are plenty and can be found within sniffing distance. Some may be tiny stand and sip, while others are large with outdoor esplanades to take advantage of the local climate. The first café of the morning is typically the only one consumed with milk and is accompanied with a ‘tosta’ (toasted bread and cheese) or a pastry, or two, or three. This is the sweet capital after all. A café is common again: mid-morning, following lunch, some have one mid-afternoon, and last one of the day commonly follows dinner. Café prices can range from €.50 to €2.50, depending on venue type and location. Like anywhere, tourist areas can be more expensive than were locals frequent.
Great areas for bars and cafes:
Before starting a meal – olives, cheese, and bread are common basics on any table in Portugal. Freshly made soups, especially in winter, and starters such as ‘pasteis de bacalhau’ (salt fish croquettes) or ‘rissois de camarão’ (savory shrimp stuffed pastries) are also common precursors to the main course. The key point to know, when dining in the fishing capital, is when to buy and eat fish. Since Roman Catholic roots dictated fishermen rest on Sundays, there is generally no fresh catch on Mondays. Otherwise, fish and seafood is available year round. If a meat eater or simply yearning to satisfy the carnivorous urge Monday’s may be the best day. As you may have also gathered, if the day’s catch did not deliver as expected, a restaurant’s menu will be changed or simply not offer what is listed, this is a good thing, go with it.
Restaurateurs proud of their selection will often bring the day’s fresh catch, uncooked, to your table for inspection. Note: some of these little monsters are not very pretty but are delicious, quickly look them in the eye for clarity and you’re good to go. There’s also value in modesty. Fancy decor does not always mean best. Tascas are simple venues known for having some of the best regional food. Outdoor grilling and cooking is also common and why there is a constant waft of food in the region’s air. Heed that great meals can be found in very unassuming locations, so when in doubt use traveler’s wisdom – look for spots filled locals.
What not to miss: Since freshness is paramount some plates will be seasonal, while others are available year round.
Although the Algarve has many towns and villages there are also many good restaurants off the beaten path.
The Algarve is abuzz with festivals throughout the year; most of course have gastronomy as part of the celebrations.
Between food and festivals there still plenty to see and do.
As the first self-declared GMO-free zone in Portugal the Algarve attempts to hold firm to its commitment to food quality, and for the cook and food lover little compares to whole fresh produce in hand to experiment. Markets of varying sizes can be found across the region: Lagoa, Loulé, Olhão, are but a few.
Market days remain very popular and early starts (7-9 am) are recommended and few will be open past noon. Prices and quality of produce can differ between vendors. The highest price does not always mean the best, watch for vendors who attract locals with consistency.
A local carrying a wicker basket is usually a tell-tale sign of a food-obsessed Algarvio, following their lead is recommended, stalking locals is not.
As a popular tourist destination, there is plenty of bedding to choose from. Suggestions included here focus on quality of service, cultural and historical relevance, and great cuisine.
As you may have gathered Algarvio’s, and Portuguese in general, have an absolute respect for mealtime, they also love to share their culture through food. If you show a similar appreciation you will undoubtedly be well guided and may also make some friends along the way.
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Since 2005, Catavino has been exploring the Iberian Peninsula looking for the very best food and wine experiences.