Menorca: A Gourmet’s Travel Guide
By Gabriella Opaz
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In the avant garde food craze of the 1990s and 2000s, one might have scoffed at the simplicity of Menorquin cuisine. Where are the gels, airs, foams, smokes (and mirrors) after all? But these days the island’s no-nonsense rustic gastronomy is becoming highly fashionable in Spain. As sustainability becomes a watchword in all our lives, what could be more sustainable than a cuisine that has existed for centuries in isolation, using the fruits and vegetables of its fertile interior and the the rich stock of the Mediterranean sea in recipes that have been handed down through generations? In addition to perfecting a variety of delicious peasant stews and a dizzying array of seafood dishes, the islanders have also mastered the art of curing meats (try the sobrasada) and making farm house cheeses (their curds are the envy of the rest of the country), whilst their British masters left them the recipe for making a great gin back in the 18th century, which is still popular today. Finally an uptake in interest of oenology has sparked a renaissance in viticulture that is leading to some credible Menorquin wines.
Menorca is all about taking it easy, so naturally the locals know how to linger for hours over little more than a cortado (expresso with a dash of milk) and an ensaimada. The latter is a circular, coiled pastry more commonly associated with the island’s bigger sister Mallorca, but also made right here on “The Little One” as well. It can be served plain, or with cream or chocolate or even with cabell d’àngel (“angel’s hair”, ie. sugared pumpkin strands). Cafes, bars and restaurants all blur into one in Menorca and on pretty much every street and square you’ll find somewhere homely to eat and drink, usually with a street terrace for watching the world go by. Just don’t expect fast service.
Great areas for bars and cafes:
Spanish mainlanders start to salivate when they begin to consider their summer holidays in the Balearics. Menorca is home to some unique dishes you can’t get elsewhere in Spain (or at least not of the same quality) and there’s a comforting charm to the cuisine whose recipes have been passed down through generations and are almost entirely made from products grown or reared on the island, or fished from its waters. Here are some unmissable dishes.
Whilst there have been one or two recent signs of experimentation on Menorca’s restaurant scene, unlike Barcelona across the water – where the globally renowned Adria brothers and their many disciplines ply their trade – this is not the place to catch up with the world’s latest eating trends, nor sit down for “symphonies” of 40+ courses tables glittering under Michelin starlight. Rather your best bet, for the most part, is to search out those places that do justice to traditional recipes of this wonderful isle.
Being a tourist destination pretty much any strange behaviour on your part will most likely be chalked up to your foreignness and excused. A few tips however.
Despite the rampant tourism across the island, heaps of tiny mom and pop produce stands can be found secreted away in cozy little buildings are in roadside stands. That said, if you’re looking for something bigger with heaps of fresh fish, these are some great options.
If you’re interested in more than food shopping, then Menorca has a wide range of crafts markets and summer markets, many of which trade in the evening… so you don’t even have to skip the beach.
Festivals play a major part in the cultural and social lives of the Menorcans, and at the centre of nearly every fiesta are their handsome steeds. These beautiful beasts can easily be distinguished from your average nags by their noble postures, jet black coats and rigid pointed ears.
A much more diverse destination than many imagine, here are a few things you might want to see and do in between stuffing your face with lobster stew.
Menorca doesn’t lack in incredible places to stay, but these are two we found especially fun and interesting!
On this full-day tour, you’ll not only explore the waterfalls, cliffs and rivers that make Gerês Natural
Since 2005, Catavino has been exploring the Iberian Peninsula looking for the very best food and wine experiences.